M'dziko la skincare, niacinamide ali ngati wothamanga wozungulira, wogonjetsa mitima ya okonda kukongola osawerengeka ndi zotsatira zake zingapo. Lero, tiyeni tivumbulutse chophimba chodabwitsa cha “nyenyezi yosamalira khungu” iyi ndi kufufuza zinsinsi zake za sayansi ndi ntchito zake limodzi.
1, Kujambula kwa sayansi kwa nicotinamide
Niacinamidendi mtundu wa vitamini B3, wotchedwa pyridine-3-carboxamide. Mapangidwe ake a maselo ali ndi mphete ya pyridine ndi gulu la amide, lomwe limapangitsa kuti likhale lokhazikika komanso lachilengedwe.
Njira yogwirira ntchito pakhungu makamaka imaphatikizapo kuletsa kusamutsa kwa melanin, kupititsa patsogolo ntchito zotchinga pakhungu, ndikuwongolera katulutsidwe ka sebum. Kafukufuku wasonyeza kuti nicotinamide imatha kukulitsa kwambiri kaphatikizidwe ka ceramides ndi mafuta acids, kukulitsa kukhulupirika kwa stratum corneum.
The bioavailability ndiye chinsinsi cha mphamvu ya nicotinamide. Ili ndi kachulukidwe kakang'ono ka molekyulu (122.12 g/mol), kusungunuka kwamadzi mwamphamvu, ndipo imatha kulowa mkati mozama mu epidermis. Deta yoyesera ikuwonetsa kuti bioavailability ya nicotinamide yapamwamba imatha kufikira 60%.
2, Zotsatira zingapo za nicotinamide
Pankhani yoyera, nicotinamide imakwaniritsa khungu lofanana poletsa kusamutsa ma melanosome kupita ku keratinocytes. Mayesero azachipatala awonetsa kuti atagwiritsa ntchito mankhwala okhala ndi 5% niacinamide kwa milungu 8, malo okhala ndi mtundu adatsika ndi 35%.
Pakuwongolera mafuta ndikuchotsa ziphuphu, niacinamide imatha kuwongolera magwiridwe antchito a sebaceous gland ndikuchepetsa kutulutsa kwa sebum. Kafukufuku watsimikizira kuti mutagwiritsa ntchito mankhwala okhala ndi 2% niacinamide kwa milungu inayi, kutulutsa kwa sebum kumachepa ndi 25% ndipo kuchuluka kwa ziphuphu kumachepa ndi 40%.
Pankhani yoletsa kukalamba, niacinamide imatha kulimbikitsa kaphatikizidwe ka collagen ndikuwongolera khungu. Kuyesera kwawonetsa kuti kugwiritsa ntchito mankhwala okhala ndi 5% niacinamide kwa milungu 12 kumachepetsa mizere yabwino yapakhungu ndi 20% ndikuwonjezera kusungunuka ndi 30%.
Kukonza chotchinga ndi mwayi wina waukulu wa niacinamide. Ikhoza kulimbikitsa kaphatikizidwe ka ceramides ndikuwonjezera mphamvu ya khungu kusunga madzi. Mukamagwiritsa ntchito mankhwala okhala ndi 5% niacinamide kwa milungu iwiri, kutayika kwa chinyezi pakhungu kumatsika ndi 40%.
3, Kugwiritsa ntchito kwa nicotinamide
Posankha zinthu zomwe zili ndi niacinamide, chidwi chiyenera kuperekedwa ku ndende ndi chilinganizo. 2% -5% ndi otetezeka komanso ogwira mtima ndende osiyanasiyana, ndipo ndende kwambiri kungayambitse mkwiyo. Ndi bwino kuyamba ndi otsika ndende ndi pang'onopang'ono kukhazikitsa kulolerana.
Malangizo ogwiritsira ntchito akuphatikizapo: kugwiritsa ntchito m'mawa ndi madzulo, kuphatikiza ndi antioxidants (monga vitamini C), komanso kumvetsera chitetezo cha dzuwa. Kafukufuku wawonetsa kuti kuphatikiza kwa niacinamide ndi vitamini C kumatha kubweretsa mgwirizano.
Chenjezo: Kupsa mtima pang'ono kumatha kuchitika mukamagwiritsa ntchito koyamba, tikulimbikitsidwa kuyeserera kaye. Pewani kugwiritsa ntchito zinthu zomwe zili ndi asidi wambiri kuti muchepetse kukhazikika kwa niacinamide.
Kupezeka ndi kugwiritsa ntchito nicotinamide kwabweretsa kusintha kwakukulu pantchito ya skincare. Kuchokera kuyera ndi kuyatsa mawanga mpaka kuwongolera mafuta ndi kupewa ziphuphu, kuchokera ku anti-kukalamba kupita ku kukonza zotchinga, zosakaniza zamitundumitundu zikusintha momwe timasamalirira khungu lathu. Kupyolera mu kumvetsetsa kwa sayansi ndi kugwiritsa ntchito moyenera, titha kugwiritsa ntchito mphamvu ya niacinamide kuti tipeze khungu lathanzi komanso lokongola. Tiyeni tipitilize kuyang'ana zinsinsi za skincare ndikupitabe patsogolo panjira yotsata kukongola.
Nthawi yotumiza: Mar-19-2025
