| Skin Care Yopangira Sayansi Series| Niacinamide (vitamini B3)

Niacinamide (Panacea m'dziko losamalira khungu)

Niacinamide, wotchedwanso vitamini B3 (VB3), ndi mtundu wa niacin womwe umapezeka kwambiri mu nyama ndi zomera zosiyanasiyana. Ndiwofunikanso kalambulabwalo wa cofactors NADH (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) ndi NADPH (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate). Pamodzi ndi kuchepetsedwa kwa NADH ndi NADPH, amakhala ngati ma coenzymes muzinthu zopitilira 40 zama biochemical komanso amachita ngati antioxidants.

Zachipatala, makamaka ntchito kupewa ndi kuchiza pellagra, stomatitis, glossitis ndi matenda ena okhudzana.

ntchito yofunika kwambiri
1.Kuwala ndi kuyera khungu

Nicotinamide imatha kutsitsa ma mayendedwe a melanosomes kuchokera ku melanocyte kupita ku keratinocyte popanda kuletsa ntchito ya tyrosinase kapena kuchuluka kwa maselo, potero kukhudza khungu. Ikhozanso kusokoneza mgwirizano pakati pa keratinocytes ndi melanocytes. Njira zowonetsera ma cell pakati pa maselo zimachepetsa kupanga melanin. Kumbali inayi, nicotinamide imatha kuchitapo kanthu pa melanin yopangidwa kale ndikuchepetsa kusamutsidwa kwake kuma cell apamwamba.

Mfundo ina ndi yakuti nicotinamide imakhalanso ndi ntchito ya anti-glycation, yomwe imatha kuchepetsa mtundu wachikasu wa mapuloteni pambuyo pa glycation, zomwe zingakhale zothandiza pakupanga khungu la nkhope zamtundu wa masamba komanso ngakhale "amayi achikasu".
Wonjezerani kumvetsetsa

Niacinamide ikagwiritsidwa ntchito ngati chopangira choyera, pamlingo wa 2% mpaka 5%, zatsimikiziridwa kuti ndizothandiza pochiza chloasma ndi hyperpigmentation yoyambitsidwa ndi cheza cha ultraviolet.

2.Anti-kukalamba, kukonza mizere yabwino (anti-free radicals)

Niacinamide imatha kulimbikitsa kaphatikizidwe ka collagen (kuwonjezera liwiro ndi kuchuluka kwa kaphatikizidwe ka collagen), kukulitsa kukhazikika kwa khungu, ndikuchepetsa mawonekedwe a mizere yabwino ndi makwinya. Ilinso ndi ma antioxidant omwe amalepheretsa ma free radicals ndikuchepetsa ukalamba wa khungu.
Wonjezerani kumvetsetsa

Kafukufuku wasonyeza kuti kugwiritsa ntchito nicotinamide (5% zomwe zili) kumachepetsa makwinya, erythema, chikasu ndi mawanga pakhungu lokalamba la nkhope.

3.Konzani khunguchotchinga ntchito
Kukonzanso kwa Niacinamide kwa ntchito yotchinga khungu kumawonekera makamaka m'magawo awiri:

① Limbikitsani kaphatikizidwe ka ceramide pakhungu;

②Kufulumizitsa kusiyanitsa kwa maselo a keratin;
Kugwiritsa ntchito pamutu kwa nicotinamide kumatha kukulitsa kuchuluka kwamafuta amafuta aulere ndi ma ceramides pakhungu, kulimbikitsa microcirculation mu dermis, ndikuletsa kutayika kwa chinyezi pakhungu.

Imawonjezeranso kaphatikizidwe ka mapuloteni (monga keratin), imachulukitsa NADPH (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate) ya intracellular, ndikufulumizitsa kusiyana kwa keratinocyte.
Wonjezerani kumvetsetsa

Kutha kukonza zotchinga pakhungu zomwe tazitchula pamwambapa zikutanthauza kuti niacinamide ili ndi mphamvu yonyowa. Kafukufuku wocheperako akuwonetsa kuti 2% ya niacinamide yodziwika bwino ndiyothandiza kwambiri kuposa mafuta odzola (petroleum jelly) pochepetsa kuchepa kwamadzi pakhungu ndikuwonjezera madzi.

Best kuphatikiza zosakaniza
1. Kuphatikiza kuyera ndi kuchotsa mawanga: niacinamide +retinol A
2. Kuphatikiza konyowa mozama:asidi hyaluronic+ squalane